American shoemakers such as Alden do wingtips so well these days that its easy to forget that the concept of a brogued shoe is originally from the British Isles. The wingtip shoe evolved out of the classic English country shoe, made with holes to let water out easily while hunting pheasants and ducks.
The Sandringham wingtip in Dark Oak and Walnut Country Calf epitomizes the look and spirit of classic English country footwear, with a slightly rougher, richer look than its city cousins. But don’t be afraid to wear these to town. With beautifully textured pebble grain country calf, double leather soles, and its distinctive “thistle” pattern at the side, these will turn sober city heads all day long.
202 Last, Dark Oak Antique/Walnut Country Calf, HAF Soles
The Dover is without doubt the quintessential Edward Green shoe. Tales of its handsewn apron and reverse split toe are legendary and rightfully so. Each is sewn by expert craftsmen who use pigs bristles rather than metal needles.
The preparation of the thread itself is a major undertaking combining several long strands and bonding them with wax then splitting the end of the bristle and lashing the thread to it.
So much of what goes into finely crafted shoes is taken for granted. It’s difficult to appreciate the level of skill, time and artisan-ship it takes to produce a pair if you haven’t seen it first hand. It’s remarkable really that in today’s high tech, automated world there are products which are still made by way of tradition. Something’s are best left unchanged.
Here are several Dover’s, that we recently received for clients. All of which were made to order.
Chestnut Antique 82 Last, HAF Soles
Burgundy Antique/Mahogany Country Calf 82 Last, Single Soles
Coffee Suede 606 Last, Dainite Soles
Walnut Country Calf 606 Last, Dainite Soles
Edwardian Antique 606 Last, HAF Soles
Edwardian Antique/Almond Country Calf 606 Last, Dainite Soles
We received a small run of the Edward Green Sandringham in Horween Whiskey shell cordovan or crup as they say across the pond. We had ordered more but as with all things cordovan availability is the rule. We’ll receive the balance of our order at some point in the future when more Whiskey shells are to be had.
These shoes are absolutely stunning due to both the beauty of the leather and the skill with which EG handles shell cordovan, they’re simply irresistible.
Sandringham 888 Last, Whiskey Cordovan, H/AF Soles
The Edward Green Dover is one of those “old friend” kinds of shoes familiar and comfortable. This new arrival is designed with the ability to be worn dressed up or down in sumptuous smooth Bronze Antique calf a rich milk chocolate brown.
We combined that with H/AF soles to add strength and stability without being clumsy. That’s because the H/AF are double leather in the forepart and taper to single leather at the waist.
But the most defining feature of the Dover is the signature skin stitched apron, which is handsewn with pig’s bristles. This is a shoe that would be a welcome staple in any shoe collection.
Dover 606 Last, Bronze Antique, H/AF Soles
We’ve never met a wingtip we didn’t like but the Edward Green Sandrignham was love at first sight. Masculine and sophisticated this full brogue lays a solid foundation for which to display your habiliments.
These four made to order Sandringham are all incredibly handsome and speak to the versatility of this shoe.
MTO is Made To Order these shoes are not in stock.
888 Last, Dark Oak/Walnut Country Calf, HAF Wide Welt Soles – MTO
202 Last, Tobacco Suede, Single Leather Sole Natural Edge – MTO
888 Last, Chestnut Antique, HAF Soles – MTO
888 Last, Coffee Suede, HAF Soles – MTO
In Northampton the home of England’s finest shoemakers they refer to shell cordovan as Crup. In our opinion Burgundy or Color 8 as we say in the States is one of the most beautiful colors. A deep crimson hue, which should be in every mans wardrobe. And like all shell cordovan colors the color varies as seen in the images below.
People are often surprised to hear that Edward Green makes shoes in Crup and in fact they make incredibly nice shoes in it. That is to say the leather is very clean with very little product on it and the shells are very clear meaning no imperfections. The result is obvious, a pair of shoes that looks and feels like a million buck or should we say pounds.
Here are a few examples of recent Edward Green MTO’s in Burgundy Crup. MTO is Made To Order these shoes are not in stock.
Arlington, 202 Last, Burgundy Crup, Dainite Soles – MTO
Newbury, 888 Last, Burgundy Crup, HAF Soles – MTO
Inverness, 888 Last Burgundy Crup, HAF Soles – MTO